How to wear a Cuban collar shirt

A Cuban collar shirt is a short sleeve shirt with an open, notched collar that lies flat against the chest. It has no collar stand and no top button to close, and it is cut straight so that it can be worn untucked. If you have searched for how to wear one, the short answer is this: leave it untucked, leave the top button open, and keep everything else in the outfit plain.

This guide covers what a Cuban collar is, what separates it from an ordinary casual shirt, how it should fit, and how to wear it with trousers, with a tee underneath and in two very different climates. We also cover the two Cuban collar shirts from Legacy London (formerly LCY London), a menswear brand designed in London and made in Colombo.

What is a Cuban collar?

A Cuban collar is a one-piece collar that is cut to fold open and sit flat. Where a standard point collar stands up around the neck and needs a button and a tie to look finished, a Cuban collar is meant to frame an open neckline. The placket is plain, the front is relaxed, and the hem is straight.

You will see the same shirt called a camp collar or a revere collar. Some makers draw a fine line between them, but for most shoppers the three names describe one shape: a short-sleeve shirt with a lapel-style collar. The look comes from warm-weather dress in mid-century Cuba and the Caribbean, which is where the name comes from. Resort wear and holiday shirting later made it familiar everywhere else.

The easiest way to spot one is to ignore the print and look at the neck. A regular casual shirt has a collar stand and is built to be buttoned to the top. A Cuban collar shirt gives that up on purpose, so the collar rolls open and nothing bunches at the throat. That is why it suits warm weather, and why the fabric and fit do most of the work.

How a Cuban collar shirt should fit

Cuban collars are cut for a relaxed, slightly boxy fit, but the shirt should not be baggy. Three checks cover it.

• The shoulder seam should sit on the edge of your shoulder, not down the upper arm.
• The body should skim your chest and stomach, with room to move but no ballooning.
• The hem should finish around the middle of your trouser fly, so that the shirt reads as untucked on purpose.

Sizing up for a looser look usually tips the shirt into shapeless, so choose the size that fits your shoulders. Both of our Cuban collar shirts are cut as relaxed Cuban collar shirts in sizes S to XL. The stretch in the fabric helps here, because it lets the shirt hold its shape across the chest while you move.

The fabric we use

Because the shirt is so simple, the cloth is exposed. A linen shirt creases fast and a thin fabric clings. A stretch fabric with some drape keeps the line.

Our Cuban Collar Shirt is cut from a soft 80% nylon, 20% spandex stretch blend. It has four-way stretch and a lightweight, breathable handle, a subtle understated print and a collar that holds its shape. It comes in Mocha and Dark Grey, with Black in limited sizes.

Our Cuban Collar Pattern Shirt uses a stretch fabric with a fine, small-scale all-over pattern, so it adds interest without overpowering the shape. It is lightweight and breathable, and it comes in Brown and White. Both are designed in London and made in our Colombo workshop.

If you are choosing between them, pick the Cuban Collar Shirt for a plain, quiet colour that works with anything, and the Pattern Shirt when you want a little texture at close range.

How to wear a Cuban collar shirt

Untucked, with the top button open

This is the default. Wear the shirt out over your trousers with the top button undone. Fasten the second button if you want a neater line, or leave two open on a hot day. Do not close the collar to the top. The shirt was not made for it.

With trousers

Tailored trousers give the shirt something to hang against. Stone, navy and olive all work. Linen trousers or chinos are an easy match, and a pair with a slight taper keeps the proportions tidy. Keep either the shirt or the trouser fitted.

Shorts turn the same shirt into holiday wear. That is fine at a beach bar and less fine at a restaurant at home, where trousers read better.

With a tee underneath

A plain white or ivory tee under an open collar keeps the look tidy and covers the chest on a thin fabric. Choose a crew neck with a neckline that sits below the collar line, so no band of tee shows at the throat. Skip printed tees under a patterned shirt. Two busy surfaces compete.

Layered in cooler weather

A flat collar layers better than a point collar because there is no stand to bunch. Under an unstructured blazer, spread the collar flat over the lapel. Under a crew-neck jumper, let it sit just outside the neckline.

Wearing one in Colombo heat and a UK summer

We design in London and make in Colombo, so we see this shirt in two climates.

In Colombo, heat and humidity are the test. A lightweight, breathable shirt with an open collar and a straight hem lets air move around the body. Wear it untucked, keep the colours light or mid-tone, and skip the layers.

In a UK summer, the shirt has to cope with changeable days. An open collar copes with a warm afternoon, and the shirt still looks right with a jacket or a light jumper when the evening cools. Treat it as a summer shirt that can stretch into early autumn, with a layer over it.

What to pair it with

• Plain chinos or linen trousers in stone, navy or olive.
• White leather trainers, loafers or sandals, depending on how smart the day is.

Looking after a Cuban collar shirt

Follow the care label sewn into the shirt. As a general rule, wash a stretch shirt gently, hang it to dry and avoid a hot iron on the collar. If the collar needs a press, use a low heat, working on the reverse side. A flat collar keeps its shape best when the shirt is hung up, not folded wet.

Common questions

Is a Cuban collar shirt smart casual?

Yes, at the relaxed end. With tailored trousers and loafers it suits most smart-casual settings, including dinner and a warm office day. It does not replace a dress shirt where a jacket and tie are expected.

Do you tuck in a Cuban collar shirt?

No. The straight hem is cut to be worn out. Tucking it in loses the relaxed line and pushes the shirt towards a look it was not made for.

What do you wear under a Cuban collar shirt?

A plain white or ivory crew-neck tee works best. Keep the neckline low enough that it does not show above the collar, and avoid prints under a patterned shirt.

What pants go with a Cuban collar shirt?

Chinos or linen trousers in stone, navy or olive are the safest match. Tailored shorts are fine for holidays. Avoid very baggy trousers with a relaxed shirt.

What is the difference between a Cuban collar and a camp collar?

In everyday use, nothing important. Both are open, flat collars on a short-sleeve shirt. A revere collar is a close relative. Cuban collar is the term most shoppers search for.

Can you wear a Cuban collar shirt in winter?

Under a jumper or a blazer, yes. The collar sits flat, so it layers cleanly. On its own it is a warm-weather shirt.

How should a Cuban collar shirt fit?

Relaxed through the body, with the shoulder seam on your shoulder and the hem around the middle of your fly. Do not size up for a baggier look.

Where are Legacy London Cuban collar shirts made?

They are designed in London and made in our Colombo workshop. Delivery is free and returns are accepted within 30 days, with return postage paid by the customer.