What makes a luxury t-shirt? Fabric, weight and fit

A luxury t-shirt is a tee where the fabric, the construction and the cut have been decided on purpose. The cotton has a proper hand, the neckline is ribbed so it stays flat, the seams sit where the body moves, and the fit is a shape you chose rather than a size you put up with. A basic tee is made to a price. A better one is made to last a few seasons and still look right. It is the short sleeve top a man wears most, so it earns careful choosing.

This guide covers what to look for in a men's designer t-shirt, how a brand's choices show in a classic crew-neck, how a knitted tee differs from a jersey tee, how to pick a size when the cut is oversized or boxy, and how to care for it. The examples are the tees we design in London and make in Colombo, Sri Lanka, sold through our luxury t-shirts collection.

Fabric: where the difference starts

Most of what you feel in a tee is the cotton and how it is spun and knitted. Look for these signs:

• A fine, even surface with no thin patches when you hold it to the light.
• A substantial hand: the fabric has some body and falls from the shoulder instead of clinging.
• A ribbed neckline that sits flat against the collarbone and springs back after wearing.

The Legacy Abstract Print Oversized Tee is cut from a fine combed-cotton jersey with a soft ribbed neckline. Combing removes the short, uneven fibres before spinning, which is why combed cotton feels smoother and looks cleaner than standard cotton. The Tape-Detail Oversized T-Shirt uses a substantial combed-cotton jersey too. Our Oversized Boxy Tee is a heavyweight cotton with a subtly textured surface.

Weight is part of the story. A heavier fabric hangs away from the body and holds a boxy outline. A lighter one drapes and breathes. Neither is better in itself. It depends on the shape you want and the season you wear it in. The Shoulder Accent Textured Tee is a 235 GSM flat jacquard cotton-poly blend, a structured fabric that keeps a clean shape. The jacquard and waffle oversized tees are cotton blends, one soft and lightweight, the other heavyweight with a textured finish.

Construction and finish

Finish is what separates a considered tee from a plain one at a glance. A ribbed crew neck keeps its line. A dropped shoulder gives an oversized tee its easy drape. Detail, where there is any, is quiet: tape along the body on the Tape-Detail tee, panelling at the shoulder on the Shoulder Accent tee, a painterly graphic on the Abstract Print tee that reads as art rather than a logo.

That restraint is deliberate. Many designer tees carry a logo on the chest. Several of ours, including the Oversized Boxy Tee and the jacquard and waffle tees, have a logo-free finish, so the shape and the fabric do the talking.

Knitted tee or jersey tee

Jersey is the standard t-shirt fabric: a single knit, cut and sewn into panels. Most tees are jersey, and a good one in combed cotton is smooth and dependable. A knitted tee is built differently. The Ottis Signature Knitted Crew Neck Tee is a refined cotton knit with a crew neck and a tailored fit. It is lightweight and breathable, and it has a cleaner, more considered finish than a standard jersey tee.

The practical difference is how they sit. A knit tee is a close relative of a fine polo, so it pairs well with our knitted polo shirts in a wardrobe. A tailored knit tee looks neat under a jacket or an open shirt, so it suits days when you want to look pulled together. A jersey tee in an oversized cut gives you volume and weight and suits a relaxed outfit.

The Ottis comes in Navy Blue, Purple, Camel Beige, White and Black, in sizes M to XL.

Fit: how to choose a size for an oversized or boxy tee

Oversized and boxy are not the same cut. An oversized tee is wide through the body and often has a dropped shoulder, so it skims and falls loosely. A boxy tee is squarer. It falls straight through the body and, in a heavier cotton, holds that shape rather than collapsing. Our Oversized Boxy Tee is cut this way, with a relaxed, structured drape.

Sizing is simple once you decide what you want:

• For the look the designer intended, take your usual size. The extra room is already built into the cut.
• For a closer fit, size down only if you are happy with less drop at the shoulder, and check the measurements on the product page first.
• For a tailored shape, choose the Ottis. It is cut to a tailored fit, unlike the oversized styles.

Sizes vary by style. The Abstract Print and Tape-Detail tees come in S to XL, the Ottis in M to XL, and each product page lists its own colours and sizes.

How to care for it

Wash cool, at 30°C, with like colours. Avoid bleach, and dry naturally rather than in a hot tumble dryer, which is the quickest way to shrink cotton and fade a surface. If a tee needs it, press with a warm iron. Turn a printed tee inside out in the wash. Treated this way, a good tee keeps its shape and colour for seasons.

What to wear it with

A graphic t-shirt, such as the Abstract Print, does the talking on its own, so keep the rest of the outfit plain. A plain one is the quiet fashion choice.

A knitted tee works under an open shirt or a light jacket. An oversized tee sits best with slimmer trousers, so the outline stays balanced. In cooler weather, a plain tee makes a clean base layer under a knit. Choose one colour and let the cut carry it. You can shop the whole range in the collection.

Questions about luxury t-shirts

What is the difference between a luxury t-shirt and a normal one?

Fabric, finish and cut. A luxury tee uses a finer or heavier cotton, a ribbed neckline that holds its line, and a fit that is designed rather than approximate. It also tends to be plain on the outside, with no large logo.

Are designer t-shirts worth it?

They are if you wear them often and they keep their shape. A tee that stays flat at the neck and keeps its colour through many washes gives more wear than a cheaper one that twists after a season.

Do oversized t-shirts run big?

They are cut large on purpose. Take your usual size for the intended look, and check the measurements on the product page if you want less room.

What is a knitted tee made of?

The Ottis Signature Knitted Crew Neck Tee is a cotton knit. It is lightweight and breathable, with a tailored fit.

Where are Legacy London t-shirts made?

We design them in London and make them in Colombo, Sri Lanka, where the house has been knitting since 1997. Legacy London (formerly LCY London) offers free delivery and 30-day returns, with return postage at the customer's cost.

How do I stop a cotton tee shrinking?

Wash it cool at 30°C and let it dry naturally. Heat is what shrinks cotton, so avoid a hot tumble dryer.

Browse the whole range in the luxury t-shirts collection.